8 Secrets Of A Great Summer Sport Coat Or Blazer – Gentleman’s Gazette
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8 Secrets Of A Great Summer Sport Coat Or Blazer – Gentleman’s Gazette

Welcome back! In today’s video I’m going to
talk about 8 secrets of a great summer sport coat. Many many believe that as long as they felt
lightweight suit jackets, they;re ready for summer but that’s not true. Basically we have
8 core principles that are important for a summer sport coat. One, start with the right weight. Ofcourse,
it’s important to have a lightweight jacket because lighter fabrics insulate less and
feel cooler. However, if your fabric is too light, you will have lots of wrinkles, it
will look bad and you have to find the right balance. Overall, about 8 to 9 ounces or 240
– 270 grams is a good start a weight because it will give you a drape. If you go lighter
than that, you may have issues with wrinkles. Two, remember weight is not everything, The
weave is even more important. The weave of a jacket is extremely important because if
it’s tightly woven, it will breathe less and in order to feel cool you want to have as
much air flow as possible. A great open weave fabric is a so called fresco fabric because
hwen you stand you can really feel every wind and it makes you feel cool.In order to determine
if your fabric is open weave or closed, one good way to do it is actually hold it against
the light source, like a light bulb and look through it and an open weave fabric is so
open you could almost read a book through it or some text in a magazine versus a tightly
woven fabric is so that you cannot really read anything through it. Three, Opt for texture. Unlike suits, sport
coats are meant to be worn in a more casual environment. In some offices, it’s okay to
wear them but overall you want the garment to be relaxed, distinctly different from the
suit jacket. Basically, you will be well dressed without being overdressed and texture is a
really great way to help you achieve that. In order to get texture, you want coarse weaves
and yarns that are slightly irregular you get some knobs. For example here, I’m wearing
a panama weave jacket which is a wide weave that creates this waffle structure and alternatively,
you can have linen where one yarn is thicker than the other so you get something irregular
and more three dimensional than a regualr business suit. Four, go with unlined jackets. The open weave
of your fabric is not enough because you have a second layer of fabric inside your jacket
which is the lining. Linings are typically made from viscose, bemberg cupro or sometime
silk which are all natural fibers or based on cellulose which is a natural fiber and
they’re very lightweight however, the weave is so tight that it restricts airflow. So
even if you have an open weave fabric but if you combine them with the lining, you will
not get the best benefits of the open fabric because the lining acts as a blocker. The
main benefit of linings is A- to protect the outer fabric and to make everything slide
and fit well. So generally, lining are great but summer, it’s more important that you feel
cool. So basically you want an unlined jacket but there are two versions of unlined jackets: One is completely unlined jackets. It means
your jacket literally has no lining whatsoever, not in the sleeves, not in the back, and this
is a rare version of the unlined jacket usually you only find them with bespoke garments.
Italians sometimes like it or spaniards or portuguese because they live in very warm
climates and they really want to maximiz the airflow. Disadvantage of the completely unlined
jacket is especially in your sleeves, it sometimes catches your shirt material and so it doesn’t
hang well or drape well. The second unlined option is called half lined or sometimes called
quarter lined. What that means is that your sleeves are lined and your shoulders are lined
but your back and oftentimes the inside front are not lined and it really helps to make
you feel cool but it also lets your sleeves drape easily so it feels comfortable. Basically,
it’s the best of both worlds. Five, select the sewn interlining also known
as canvas. One of the most important aspects of jackets or sport coats is the interlining
which is also known as canvas. Basically, when you have a piece of fabric, it’s two
dimensional flat, in order to keep it in a certain shape, three dimensional around your
chest, you have to fixate the interlining to the outer fabric and connect them. You
can connect them by sewing them together or by gluing them together. Economically, it’s
much less expensive to glue these layers together but in terms of comfort it’s really bad because
it’s a fine fabric, it makes you sweat and the fabric doesn’t breathe as well. On the
other hand, a sewn canvas really feels more comfortable, generally softer and it allows
you to feel more the air and it’s also known as the breathing garment. Basically, you’ll
have three levels of interlinings. You have full canvas, half canvas and you have fuse.
Generally, only top quality garments have full canvas because it’s the most expensive
way to do it and if you go to a tailor or to a high end made to measure company or rent
to wear company, that;s what you really get, a full canvas jacket or sport coat. The next
step down would be the half canvas jacket, that means that the top oart of your sport
coat is sewn with a canvas versus the bottom part is glued. The only reason to do that
is to save a cost without sacrificing some of the look on top of the garment where it’s
more important than the bottom. Very inexpensive sport coats and usually the ones that are
most comfortable are the ones woth fused interlining. For summer, you definitely want to avoid it
at all cost cos it’s a guarantee that you overheat and sweat a lot. That being said,
not all canvasses are alike, you can have a full sewn interlining canvass that is much
stiffer or softer and ideally for summer jacket, you want as little interlining as possible
and you want it to be as soft as possible so it’s really comfortable and you don’t really
feel much. Traditionally, horse hair blended with wool was used but for summer sport coats,
it’s better to go with like cotton wool because horse hair is rather stiff and it’s not ideal
interlining of canvas that you want for a summer sport coat. Six, go with a bold pattern.When you have
an open weave fabric, what happens is you can see through one way but also the other
way and you don’t want people to see what you’re wearing on the inside or if you have
a pen in your pocket. So ideally, a bold pattern a- makes sure you look very differnt from
business men but also it helps to make your garment not see through. For example, this
pattern is really great but you can also try others, windowpanes, checks, seersucker stripes,
madras pattern, all of these things are great for summer sport coats. What you definitely
want to avoid is things like pinstripes or chalkstripes, they’re typically associated
with business suits because sport coats are not just a suit jacket on its own, they’re
indistinctly different jacket. seven, embrace strong colors. Now, when you
don’t want to wear a pattern or you don’t have one or it doesn’t suit you well, that’s
okay. You can also go with stronger typical summer colors. What I mean by that i avoid
the typical black, grey, charcoal, blues and navys and instead go for something like light
blue or nice green and that way you really create a different, distinct, unique look.
What’s also important is you never want solids, you also want slightly mottled colors. Basically,
you can be as creative as you want, maybe red or orange or something turquoise. ALl
these colors can work and it depends on how comfortable you are and how strong they are.
When in doubt, I recommend go for something that is always a little lighter and interwoven
with white yarns like this one here because that way it softens the look even if you have
a stonger, bolder color. Eight, choose a single breasted jacket and
pay attention to details. Personally, I love double breasted jackets, I think they’re really
great on me, they look really masculine and they’re flattering. However, when it comes
to summer sport coats, single breasted is preferrable because it’s simply less fabric
that is layered up in front of you so I’m more comfortable when it’s hot outside. Also,
when it comes to details you want to make sure that you either have patch pockets on
your chest, on your side and you can also have details like a center pleat in the back
or like shooting pleats, you can have angled pockets, maybe contrasting color or a little
colored tab. You definitely want to make sure that you have certain details that look distinctly
different from a business suit. If you just have a regular flat pocket, two button jacket
with a notched lapel that you also wear to your office, you should always try to mix
it up when you have a sport coat. As far as accessories go, in summer sport coats, I prefer
to wear bow ties when it’s hot cos it’s just a single layer around my neck and it doesn’t
drape all the way along my body which can oftentime insulate and make you feel warmer
than you have to be. If you want to wear a tie, I suggest you go with knit ties because
theyhave a very open weave and they let the air go through. For a selection of summer knit ties, check
out our selection of Fort Belvedere here. If you enjoyed this video, please subscribe
to our channel and I look forward to seeing you next time. Thank you.


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